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Founded in 1935, HaTikva became an official part of the Tel Aviv municipality in 1948. Considered the “working class” neighborhood of the city, HaTikva is a genuine melting pot of cultures, ethnicities, and ages.
While this confluence of cultures has resulted in some well-documented challenges, the neighborhood is vibrant, eclectic and boasts a charming market that feels clean and spacious when compared with the ever-popular, yet perennially crowded, Shuk HaCarmel.
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
And, of course, there is the food that has made HaTikva so popular throughout it’s existence. The neighborhood’s original claim to fame is actually as the original birth of al ha-aish, or the grilling of meats over an open fire — in Israel.
You may see Israelis grilling meats on open fires in restaurants, on the beach and in parks on a daily basis now, but once upon a time, HaTikva was the only place in Israel where diners could enjoy succulent, fire-branded meats. Countless droves of people would flock to the main drag of Etsel Street to get their hands on some. Expansion and franchising have taken some of the luster out of the once-popular trade, but diners longing for chargrilled cuts with a side of nostalgia will be pleased to find that the best known venues of the era are still open for business.
Our tour of HaTikva focuses on the can’t-miss gastronomical highlights of this diverse neighborhood (including al ha-aish). If you’re coming for the day, bring your appetite and a bit of your adventurous spirit. And keep your eyes open! Some of the old-school methods of cooking and baking are surprisingly still in-play, and the adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix” was never more fitting than when in the midst of Schunat HaTikva.
4 Hatikva Eateries You Must Visit
Avazi
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
One of the aforementioned neighborhood grill restaurants since 1970, Avazi has received plenty of local and international press over the years. Named for the founding owner (his last name was Abazi), no one could ever have guessed the odd twist this fateful moniker would embody and how it would lead to a trendsetting culinary creation. The current owners, brothers Shimshon and David know the history well and how to tell it.
“A few years after Abazi opened, they were grilling some goose heart and a bit of the liver was still attached. People [knew] goose liver as pate or foie gras; no one had ever cooked it over a flame, and it is absolutely delicious. Customers flocked to the restaurant specifically for this dish, and Avazi became an international sensation.”
Given that the Hebrew word for goose is “Avaz”, the entire scenario feels touched by Lady Luck. Avazi still serves their famous grilled goose liver, as well as a variety of grilled meat and fish dishes. Accompanied by a smorgasbord of homemade salads and fresh bread, this is a taste of Israeli history worth biting into.
Where: 37 Etsel Street, Tel Aviv-Yafo
Contact: 03-6879918
Mafiyat Tachan
For forty years, this tiny bakery has supplied fresh Iraqi lafa to the entire neighborhood. “Back in the day” if you were eating Iraqi bread at any one of the HaTikva’s numerous grill restaurants, it was a sure-fire bet that it came from the taboon ovens of Mafiyat Tachan, and even today the odds are pretty good.
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
Dating back to pre-biblical times, the taboonn is still widely used in Arab baking. Simple, rustic home ovens are typically build of clay and shaped like a wide-mouth volcano. The ovens at Mafiyat Tachan are built into a stone support and span an entire wall. The flame is ignited from the bottom of the oven and the baker holds a disc of dough and smacks it hard against the inner surface of the wide mouth so that it flattens and sticks. After 5 minutes, he removes the bubbly, browned bread and voila, Iraqi lafa! It’s a fascinating technique to watch and a delicious result. Be sure to ask for a hot one!
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
Where: 41 Etsel Street, Tel Aviv-Yafo
Contact: 03-5374455
HaSaluf
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
Just inside the main entrance to the market, HaSaluf’s Yemenite fare is classic Middle Eastern cuisine. Standards like shakshuka, malawach, jachnun, humus, lachuch, saluf and salad all make an appearance, as well as hearty, traditional Yemenite soups. Yemenite cuisine is abound in HaTikva, but what sets this place a apart is the lively atmosphere, the fresh-baked kubaneh and the Wi-Fi.
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
While the wi-fi may be a fairly recent addition, the kubaneh has been a staple for all 20 years that HaSaluf has graced the neighborhood. Cooked at very low heat for a very long time, this slightly-sweet bread is the Yemenite version of French brioche and is meant to be pulled apart with the hands. Wrapped in foil to maintain freshness, it’s the perfect presentation for a Shabbat table and they fly like hotcakes every Friday morning.
Speaking of Fridays, HaSaluf is widely known for their Friday music parties when they turn up the volume on mizrachi jams and everyone shows up to celebrate. It’s loud, it’s crowded, and it’s a don’t miss.
Where: 1 Hatikva Street
Shipudei HaTikva
Photo: Gabrielle Donati
If you’ve ever been to Israel, you’re probably thinking that you can have Shipudei HaTikva anywhere, but in this case we’re talking about the real deal, the OG of the successful franchise. In its prime, this place saw so many customers they had to open another two-story restaurant directly across the street.
When grill restaurants expanded outside the HaTikva neighborhood, the crowds diminished and neighborhood expansion subsided, but the original Shipudei HaTikva is still doing what it does best – grilled meats, salads, rice, and chips.
Although there is plenty of seating space, there is less of a formal dining vibe here than at Avazi, and more of a fast-food look and feel. Some complain that franchising has created less originality and more standardization, but the popularity of the place and its long-standing reputation has put it on the “must see” map for large tourist groups and catered events, and it’s still a great choice for some good grilled meat in HaTikva.
Where: 37 Etsel Street, Tel Aviv-Yafo
Contact: 03-6885243
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About the author
Gabrielle Donati lives a life of relative ease in the great White City. She is a veteran writer, critic and all-in-all decent person, once you get to know her. A devout Pastafarian who puts an emphasis on living healthy and happy, she enjoys discovering and sharing the many little pleasures of the city.
Featured image: PikiWiki Israel/ד”ר אבישי טייכר/CC BY 2.5
